美国国家公共电台 NPR Seltzer's Popularity Bubbles Up In The U.S.

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AUDIE CORNISH, HOST:

We may be in the middle of a seltzer bubble. Americans are drinking nearly 170 million gallons each year, and seltzer sales have gone up 42 percent over the last five years with no signs of slowing down.

ARI SHAPIRO, HOST:

Further evidence that we've reached peak seltzer - there's a restaurant in Boston offering a $40 flight of limited edition seltzers.

BARRY JOSEPH: We are now at a point in American history where seltzer is more popular than it's ever been.

SHAPIRO: Barry Joseph is the author of "Seltzertopia." He says today's seltzer obsession¹ has its roots in 1971.

JOSEPH: A new drink comes over from Europe in 1971 called Perrier, and suddenly people aren't only interested in flat water anymore. Now they like maybe a mineral water. They like the idea of sparkling water. And people rediscover this thing that we've had around for a while, seltzer.

CORNISH: Joseph says that people are turning to seltzer as a healthier option than soda², and one brand in particular is having a moment.

JOSEPH: Millennials have their own fascination³ with seltzer, specifically one particular brand, LaCroix.

(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "LACROIX BOI")

BIG DIPPER: (Singing) LaCroix Boi - tiny bubbles tickle⁴ tongues, mixing flavors just for fun.

SHAPIRO: That's rapper Big Dipper with his YouTube hit "LaCroix Boi," an ode to the sensual possibilities of seltzer. It's somewhat mysterious how a brand that was cool with Midwestern soccer dads in the 1980s has caught on with today's 20-somethings.

(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "LACROIX BOI")

BIG DIPPER: (Singing) Peach, pear, apricot, tangerine⁵, don't ever stop. Mango, cran-raspberry - best you ever had.

CORNISH: But it's not just LaCroix. Seltzer brand Polar has carved out a space in a crowded fizzy water market with seasonal⁶, limited-run flavors, which brings us back to that $40 seltzer flight in Boston.

SHAPIRO: Sweet Cheeks is a barbecue joint⁷ in Boston, and for your $40, you get four cans of Polar with four nips of vodka. Owner Tiffani Faison points out that $10 vodka sodas⁸ are not rare in the city. And she says this is supposed to be fun.

TIFFANI FAISON: You get this great, little kit⁹ packed in ice. You get four cups with really crazy straws coming out. I mean the whole thing is ridiculous.

CORNISH: And the seltzer flavors are pretty silly, too.

FAISON: Dragon Whispers, Mermaid¹⁰ Songs, Yeti Mischief¹¹ and Unicorn¹² Kisses.

SHAPIRO: If you're wondering what Yeti Mischief tastes like, Faison says it's like lemon-lime with a handful of Skittles thrown in.

(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "SELTZER BOY")

LENNY SOLOMON: (Singing) Don't bring me water. I got to have seltzer 'cause water don't bubble, and water don't fizz. Water I hate.