世界名厨变废为宝 在里约建造慈善餐厅

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里约热内卢――想想看，需要多少东西，才能在里约奥运会的一餐上为所有奥运机器提供营养和水分：每顿饭都需要250吨原材料，才能喂饱奥运村里的1.8万名运动员、教练员和官员。

Now multiply that figure by three — for breakfast, lunch and dinner — and again for each day of the games.

如果把这个数字乘以三――早饭、午饭和晚饭――那就是奥运会每天所需要的量。

On the other side of the Atlantic Ocean, Italian chef Massimo Bottura also did the math and was inspired, not by the tantalizing² dimensions of herculean consumption but by the prospect³ of colossal⁴ waste.

在大西洋的另一侧，意大利主厨马西莫?博图拉(Massimo Bottura)也做了这样一道算术题，并且受到了启发——不是因为这样诱人的庞大消耗，而是因为其中的巨大浪费。

“I thought, this is an opportunity to do something that can make a difference,” said Bottura, 53, a fast-talking blur⁵ of a man whose restaurant in Modena, Osteria Francescana, recently earned the top award from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

“我当时想，这是做出改变的机会，”53岁的博图拉说起话来快而含糊，他在摩德纳（Modena，意大利北部城市——编注）开的餐厅“Osteria Francescana”前不久刚刚获得了“世界50佳餐厅”评选的头奖。

On Thursday night, that something looked like this: In a fraying⁶ section of downtown Rio, a pack of the world’s most venerated⁷ chefs were rushing around a slapdash kitchen amid a crush of volunteers as they improvised⁸ a dinner for 70 homeless people.

星期四晚上，人们眼前出现了这样一幕：在里约市中心一处破破烂烂的地方，一群世界上最受人尊敬的大厨跟着一群志愿者涌进一个凌乱的厨房，他们要临时为70名无家可归者做一顿晚餐。

All of the ingredients, most of which might have otherwise been thrown away, had been donated, as had the labor⁹ of the chefs and orange-aproned servers, some of whom had traveled to Rio from California, Germany and Japan.

所有食材都是捐献而来，其中大部分原本是要被丢弃的，大厨们和身穿橘红色围裙的侍者们都是免费来做义工，其中有些人还是从加利福尼亚、德国和日本坐飞机赶来的。

The creators of this place, Refettorio Gastromotiva — refettorio means dining hall in Italian — hope it will change the way Brazilians, and the world, think about hunger, food waste and the nourishing of human dignity.

这个地方名叫“Refettorio Gastromotiva”，“refettorio”在意大利语里就是“餐厅”的意思，创办者们希望它能改变巴西乃至整个世界对饥饿、浪费食物和培养人性尊严的看法。

“This is not just a charity; it’s not just about feeding people,” said Bottura, pausing to pick up trash from the forlorn playground outside his new venture. “This is about social inclusion, teaching people about food waste and giving hope to people who have lost all hope.”

“这不仅仅是一项慈善活动，不仅仅是喂饱人们，”博图拉顿了一下，从他的新餐厅外面荒凉的游乐场上捡拾垃圾。“这事关社会融合，它教给人们有关食品浪费的事情，把希望带给那些失去一切希望的人。”

In the days since it began operating Wednesday out of a hastily erected¹⁰ translucent¹¹ box in the downtrodden neighborhood of Lapa, Refettorio Gastromotiva has become something of a sensation — a feel-good counterpoint to the commercialization of the games, and to the gluttony that unfolds each night in the pop-up pavilions that many countries have set up throughout the city.

Refettorio Gastromotiva位于穷人住的拉帕(Lapa)社区，是一座仓促搭建起来的半透明盒状结构，自星期三开始运营以来，很快造成了轰动——奥运会已经高度商业化，这座城市布满了来自世界各国的临时饮摊点，每夜都有许多人大吃大喝，博图拉的饭馆和这种景象形成令人愉悦的鲜明对比。

Prime Minister Matteo Renzi of Italy and Brazilian actress and television host Regina Casé have stopped by, and culinary luminaries¹² like Alain Ducasse, Virgilio Martínez Véliz and Joan Roca are among the 50 chefs who have signed up for kitchen shifts.

意大利总理马泰奥?伦齐(Matteo Renzi)和巴西女演员、电视节目主持人雷吉娜?卡塞(Regina Casé)都曾在这里驻足，烹饪界名人阿兰?杜卡塞(Alain Ducasse)、维尔吉利奥?马丁内斯?维利兹(Virgilio Martínez Véliz)和霍安?罗卡(Joan Roca)也在厨房的50位轮班厨师之列。

On Thursday night, Alex Atala, who runs DOM, one of Brazil’s top-rated restaurants, and is the former host of a popular cooking show, helped prepare the evening’s menu: Italian-style couscous with sautéed beef and panzanella, a Tuscan bread-and-tomato dish that was produced with ingredients donated by the catering¹³ companies that supply the Olympic Village.

巴西顶级餐厅DOM的老板阿历克斯?阿塔拉(Alex Atala)曾经主持过一档颇受欢迎的烹饪电视节目，星期四晚上，他帮忙准备了晚餐的菜谱：意式粗麦粉炸牛肉；还有“panzanella”，这是一种托斯卡纳式的面包配西红柿，食材都是为奥运村提供饮食的公司捐献的。

Atala said the astounding¹⁴ deluge¹⁵ of international support was born of seemingly unrelated global movements: the growing awareness¹⁶ of food waste, the rise of the celebrity¹⁷ chef and widespread frustration¹⁸ over the persistence¹⁹ of hunger in even the most developed countries.

阿塔拉说，这样惊人的国际援助，来自几种看似毫无联系的全球运动：人们对节约食品的意识在增长；明星厨师的崛起；以及对饥饿现象的普遍沮丧，长期难以解决的饥饿问题甚至在大多数发达国家仍然存在。

“We are a generation of young chefs who are not competing with each other, but who want to share,” Atala, 48, said.

“我们年轻一代厨师不会彼此竞争，而是希望分享，”48岁的阿塔拉说。

The project is not Bottura’s first venture into culinary philanthropy. During the World Expo in Milan last year, he turned an abandoned theater into Refettorio Ambrosiano, and the center continues to operate.

这并不是博图拉第一次尝试烹饪慈善事业。在去年的米兰世界博览会上，他把一处废弃的剧院改建成了“Refettorio Ambrosiano”，那个饮食中心现在仍然在运营。

His latest refettorio is a collaboration²⁰ with David Hertz, a Brazilian chef who has spent the past decade training disadvantaged men and women to work as kitchen assistants and spreading the gospel of slow food, a movement that emphasizes local culinary traditions and high-quality, locally sourced ingredients.

这家最新的餐厅是他同巴西主厨大卫?赫兹(David Hertz)合作的成果，过去十年来，赫兹一直在致力于培训身有残疾的男女担任厨房助手，并传播“慢食运动”，该运动注重本土烹饪传统，以及高质量的本地食材。

Nine months before the start of the games, and with little time to waste, Hertz persuaded the city’s mayor to provide an empty lot, and Bottura began the difficult task of raising $250,000.

奥运会开幕九个月之前，赫兹抓紧时间，说服里约市长提供一块空地；博图拉则承担了募集25万美元资金的艰巨任务。

Last-minute appeals yielded a bevy²¹ of commercial-grade freezers, ovens and an ice cream maker²². The structure, a gleaming industrial shed outfitted²³ with art and crisp plywood furniture, was built in 55 days. Despite the generosity²⁴, the project ran over budget and created a nearly $190,000 hole that the organizers are trying to fill with donations.

最后时刻的呼吁，令这家店得到了一批商用级别的冰箱和烤箱，以及一台冰淇淋机。这座建筑也在55天内建成了，它是一座闪闪发光的工业风格小屋，里面装饰着艺术品，摆放着簇新的胶合板家具。尽管有各方面慷慨解囊，这个项目还是超出了预算，造成了将近19万美元的亏空，组织者们正在试图用捐款来填补。

With a 10-year lease to their sliver²⁵ of land, Food for Soul, Bottura’s organization, plans to keep the venture going after the Olympics are over. To make it sustainable, Refettorio Gastromotiva will serve lunch to paying customers and use the proceeds to fund more than 100 free dinners each night for those in need.

博图拉的组织“灵魂食粮”(Food for Soul)拥有这块土地十年的租约，它计划在奥运会结束后仍继续运营。为了能够持续发展下去，Refettorio Gastromotiva将来还会向付费客户提供午餐服务，并且使用这部分收益，每天晚上向100个有需要的人免费提供晚餐。

“This is not some pop-up project,” Bottura said.

“这不是一次性的临时项目，”博图拉说。

On Thursday, the second night of operation, the refettorio was the site of controlled chaos²⁶. Workers struggled to churn out three successive seatings while coping with a shortage of natural gas and an inadequate²⁷ electricity supply that made it impossible to use the deep fryer, ovens and freezers at the same time.

星期四，也就是餐厅开张第二个晚上，这里充满有序的混乱。工人们忙着打造三排椅子；由于天然气和电力短缺，导致炸锅、烤箱和冰箱没法同时工作。

At 6 p.m., the door flung open and the diners shuffled²⁸ in, eyes wide with anticipation²⁹. The chef explained each course, which emerged from the open kitchen on simple white china. Cheers and applause filled the room.

到了晚上6点，门开了，用餐者们拖着脚步走进来，眼睛睁得大大的，充满了期待。菜肴用简单的白瓷餐具盛着，从开放式厨房里端出来，大厨逐一向客人们讲解。欢呼和掌声充满房间。

One diner, Rene da Concei??o, said the food was the best he’d had in his 40 years, the past nine of which he has spent living with his wife on the streets of Rio.

一位名叫勒内?达?孔塞萨(Rene da Concei??o)的用餐者说，这是他40年来吃过的最美味的食物，过去九年里，他和妻子生活在里约街头。

“Oh my God, he takes banana peels and makes incredible ice cream,” he gushed³⁰ afterward³¹. “And you know, we ate food from Italy!”

“上帝啊，他把香蕉剥了皮，做成了美味的冰淇淋，”事后他滔滔不绝地说道。“你知道吗，我们吃上意大利餐了！”

A thin, bedraggled man with a wide, infectious smile, Concei??o explained that his meals were usually scavenged from garbage bins³² and that he went to bed hungry many nights. Since the Olympics began, he said, police have barred him from Copacabana, a neighborhood that provides a cornucopia³³ of discarded food and items like cardboard that can be sold to recyclers.

孔塞萨身材消瘦，脏兮兮的，脸上却带着富于感染力的笑容，他说，自己平常吃的都是垃圾箱里捡来的东西，经常饿着肚子睡觉。他说，自从奥运会开始以来，警察禁止他进入科帕卡巴纳，那里有丰盛的丢弃食品，还有纸板箱之类可以卖给垃圾回收商的东西。

More than filling his stomach, Refettorio Gastromotiva, he said, had provided much-needed dollops of kindness and respect.

他说，Refettorio Gastromotiva不仅填饱了他的肚子，也带来了一点他非常需要的善意与尊敬。

“These guys, they shake your hand and they treat you like you’re a boss,” he said. “I thought I was dreaming and told my wife to pinch me. But it wasn’t a dream.”

“这些人跟你握手，对你就像对老板一样，”他说。“我还觉得自己是在做梦，让老婆捏我一下。但这不是在做梦。”

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