舌尖上的中国第1季 第69期:厨房的秘密(10)

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A cook specialized² in Chinese cuisine³ knows it too well that even the slightest change in cutting may directly result in a total difference in the feeling on the tongue and teeth. 有追求的中国菜厨师深知刀锋上分毫的差异会直接影响到舌尖，齿间敏锐的感受。

Chinese food can never be judged simply according to the degree of heat used to cook. 中国菜，从来都不以单纯的成熟为标准。

Yangzhou was once the most important stop on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal which brought the city a cultural charm integrating the north with the south. 扬州曾经是京杭大运河最重要的一站它给扬州带来了南北融合的文化风韵。

Question is whether our guests will accept the menu, 客人能不能接受这些菜这是个大问题，

because Huaiyang Cuisine focuses on broths⁴, we tend to retain the original taste and flavor of the ingredients. 因为看这些功能表我们淮扬菜就是用汤，原汁原味。

As an internationally renowned⁵ Chinese cuisine chef, Ju Changlong returned to his hometown, Yangzhou, at the invitation of the Huaiyang Cuisine Museum. 已经是中餐国际名厨的居长龙回到故乡扬州是缘于淮扬菜博物馆的邀请。

Hundreds of years ago, when Yangzhou was the hub of the salt trade in China, many merchants moved here to earn a fortune by trading salt. 几百年前扬州是中国食盐集散中心大批的商人来到这里靠着食盐贸易发家。

They brought from their hometowns local cooks, foods and flavour, which created the neutral taste of Huaiyang dishes, mild and pleasant, acceptable to both the northerners and southerners. 他们同时带来的还有各自家乡的厨师，食材，口味造就了淮扬菜甜咸适中南北皆宜的风味。

Salt traders were rich, but they never had a place in politics, so they devoted⁶ themselves to comparing their gardeners and chefs. 富有盐商，没有政治地位只能攀比花园和家厨的手艺。

The influence of it can still be tasted from certain types of haute cuisine today. 今天，在一些菜品上我们还能领略一二。

If you want to shred⁷ lactone tofu which is extremely tender and vulnerable into the size of a piece of hair, 要想像胡萝卜一样将柔软脆弱的内酯豆腐切成毛发,

it is not only a challenge toward the coordination⁸ of hands, eyes and knife, but also the integration⁹ of skill and mind. 粗细考验的不止是手，眼，刀的配合而是要心手合一。

And that's what we need to prepare Wensi Tofu. 这就是文思豆腐。

When you are cutting, your knife should keep up the pace of the receding¹⁰ forefinger¹¹ of your other hand which is holding the tofu. 下刀时，要依左手食指后退速度相应起伏。

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