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People gather around 'Table of the Merciful' in Cairo's Khan al-Khalili bazaar1, 12 Aug 2010
Many of Cairo's poor are spending this Ramadan, the Islamic month of spiritual devotion, coping with such worldly problems as electricity shortages, stifling2 heat and rising prices. But a small reprieve3 can be found nightly at charity tables set up around the capital that feed all comers.
At one "Table of the Merciful," tucked in a corner of the Old City's Khan al-Khalili bazaar, the women gather first, even before planks4 are raised as makeshift tables. They sit patiently on the cobblestones, occasionally reining5 in a boisterous6 baby who crawls among them. It's still an hour until the call to prayer will end the day's fast.
How tradition started
On a rooftop terrace three floors above, Essam Rashad stands stirring a massive pot of peas. He checks on an equally impressive pan of rice and platters full of meat - all part of the iftar meal he is hosting for the dozens of people below.
A gem7 dealer8, Rashad is somewhat of an accidental benefactor9. One night during Ramadan 15 years ago, he was stuck in traffic and missed iftar at home. The next night, he decided10 to eat at his shop and asked some friends to join him. The following night more people came, the next even more, and his life as an iftar host began.
It's a venerable Egyptian tradition, made more visible in recent decades by actors and other celebrities11 hiring top chefs in well-publicized fulfillment of the Islamic duty of charity. Those over-the-top affairs highlight a paradox12 of Ramadan in Egypt, where lavish13 banquets during the month of fasting push national food consumption three times above the norm.
Who benefits?
Many of Cairo's poor are either unable to find work, or are paid extremely low wages.
But most "Tables of the Merciful" are like Rashad's, with simple, well-cooked meals offered humbly14 on newspaper. Like the drinking water dispensers found throughout the capital, they are gifts largely of unsung patrons. All are welcome, as the anticipation15 of the coming meal makes clear.
With one in five Egyptians living on less than a dollar a day, such benevolence16 is indeed seen as godsend. In addition to the unemployed17, there are the underpaid - policemen, workers - who turn out for a place at the table. Rashad's friend and fellow gem dealer, Yussef, says despite government subsidies18, rising prices have hit hard.
"[Essam] told me when he used to make the food, he used to throw half of it in the garbage," Yussef says. "Today, everyone is looking for rice. I think a lot of people have hunger. There is a lot of problems in the economy."
Motivation
Essam Rashad, left, happily back on his sheesha pipe after a day of abstaining19.
Of course, the "Tables of the Merciful" also offer a sense of community, which is much appreciated by guests including Abdel Kader Mohamed Abdel Kader, who has been spending Ramadan at such tables for 40 years. Kader praises the tradition, saying it brings people together to eat and drink, and feel the spirit of the holy month.
As for Rashad, who makes the meal each of the 30 nights of Ramadan, he believes the blessings20 he receives from his good deed account for how well his four daughters have turned out, and how much his business has grown. He says he could have earned the same rewards had he simply donated money to charity and let others do the work. But he says there are some people who like to go through the effort, who want to serve people. He says "that kind of person enjoys it when someone says 'I want a different piece of bread', or 'do this or do that for me.' His back might ache," Rashad adds, "but he loves it."
1 bazaar | |
n.集市,商店集中区 | |
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2 stifling | |
a.令人窒息的 | |
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3 reprieve | |
n.暂缓执行(死刑);v.缓期执行;给…带来缓解 | |
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4 planks | |
(厚)木板( plank的名词复数 ); 政纲条目,政策要点 | |
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5 reining | |
勒缰绳使(马)停步( rein的现在分词 ); 驾驭; 严格控制; 加强管理 | |
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6 boisterous | |
adj.喧闹的,欢闹的 | |
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7 gem | |
n.宝石,珠宝;受爱戴的人 [同]jewel | |
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8 dealer | |
n.商人,贩子 | |
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9 benefactor | |
n. 恩人,行善的人,捐助人 | |
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10 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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11 celebrities | |
n.(尤指娱乐界的)名人( celebrity的名词复数 );名流;名声;名誉 | |
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12 paradox | |
n.似乎矛盾却正确的说法;自相矛盾的人(物) | |
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13 lavish | |
adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍 | |
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14 humbly | |
adv. 恭顺地,谦卑地 | |
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15 anticipation | |
n.预期,预料,期望 | |
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16 benevolence | |
n.慈悲,捐助 | |
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17 unemployed | |
adj.失业的,没有工作的;未动用的,闲置的 | |
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18 subsidies | |
n.补贴,津贴,补助金( subsidy的名词复数 ) | |
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19 abstaining | |
戒(尤指酒),戒除( abstain的现在分词 ); 弃权(不投票) | |
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20 blessings | |
n.(上帝的)祝福( blessing的名词复数 );好事;福分;因祸得福 | |
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