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2014年经济学人 家庭酿造 一品脱制作精良的好酒

时间:2019-12-04 08:56:25

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Home brewing2

A pint3 well made

Britain's home brewers are raising a more palatable4 glass

Mr Nelson's tipple5

HOME brew1 was once a phrase that struck terror into the heart of the civilised drinker. In the 1970s, a friend offering to crack open a bottle of foul6 muck made in a cupboard under the stairs was a common threat and the prelude7 to an appalling8 hangover. But the fad9 took hold because of the dull alternatives and the fact that it was, at least, cheap. Times have changed. The winning entry in a nationwide home-brewing competition went on sale in October in Waitrose, a fancy supermarket, at 2.50 a bottle.

Thornbridge Brewery10, a well-regarded small beermaker and one of the sponsors of the tournament, will produce 10,000 bottles of Graham Nelson's Vienna IPA, which beat over 200 other tipples11 to take the title. Mr Nelson is one of a new batch12 of home brewers for whom quality rather than parsimony13 is a guiding principle. To make top-quality beer home brewers can buy equipment that is like a miniature version of a commercial brewery. Discerning drinkers are buying crateloads of pricey craft ales made on a small scale in a fast-growing collection of microbreweries. And like foodies, who roast their own coffee beans or bake sourdough bread, some want to have a go at making the stuff themselves.

Adventurous15 amateurs are well served by a homebrewing culture that has spread like yeast16 in an airing cupboard. In the 1970s most bought a kit17 containing malt extract and a gloopy brown syrup18 which merely required the addition of water and a bit of patience. Kits19 are still popular for the first-time brewers and there are plenty of online stores that will sell you one. But home brewers are progressing to a set-up like a commercial brewery in miniature: mashing20 their own grain and selecting from an international array of malts and hops21.

Easier access to information has also helped as beermakers swap22 tips on the internet. Online videos and forums23 guide the inexperienced. And some brewers will, for a fee, help newcomers. Beer Lab, for example, offers sessions where enthusiasts24 can select and brew a beer of their choice at its site in London under the watchful25 eye of a professional. Microbreweries around the country run similar courses.

The numbers involved in home brewing are unclear but equipment suppliers say that business is booming. One firm that makes unbranded kits for smaller retailers26 says that sales have grown by 25% on average for the past five years and show no sign of slowing. The impact is more obvious. Sales of commercially produced craft beer grew by 8% in 2013 while big brands are drooping27. Overall beer sales grew by just 1.4% in 2013 after eight years of decline. Britain now has 1,285 breweries14 compared with 200 in the 1970s. According to CAMRA, an organisation28 that promotes good beer, 14 new microbreweries are opening in the country every month. Most of their proprietors29 honed their skills at home.


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