舌尖上的中国第1季 第52期:时间的味道(9)

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And the thrifty² and intelligent Huizhou people invented the magic of cooking the fish through curing or fermenting³ processes. 俭朴智慧的徽州人则发明了用腌制和发酵这两种方法来再次制造美味的魔法。

Break up the meat with your chopsticks. 你用筷子把这个鱼肉拨开。

The slices of meat look like garlic cloves⁴. 它那个鱼肉是呈蒜瓣状的。

It's very tender and delicious. 一片一片的，很细嫩很鲜美的。

Sliced Salted Pork is another classic dish of Hui Cuisine⁵. 徽菜的另一道代表菜“刀板香”鲜肉腌制后，省略了烟熏的程式。

Cut the salted meat into slices and place them on a camphorwood board without smoking. 切片，把它放在上等的香樟木板上耐心地等待樟木板慢慢吸走咸肉的油腻。

Wait until the board thoroughly⁶ drains and grease from the meat. 既保持肉的咸鲜又油而不腻。

Wait until the board thoroughly drains the grease from the meat. 既保持肉的咸鲜又油而不腻。

This way, the pork will taste refreshing⁷. 这才是真正的“刀、板留香”。

Today, in Huangshan Mountain area, you can still see hams and salted meat being hung and sundried in the yards of local households. 在今天的黄山地区农家后院里依然晾晒着火腿和咸肉。

Ye Xinwei Chef Ye thinks his hometown produces the best ham in the world. 叶新伟在叶师傅看来家乡的农家火腿是世上最美味的火腿。

Of course, he also knows Jinhua in Zhejiang, not far from Huizhou, has a better known ham product famous for nice color, pleasant aroma⁸ and fresh taste. 当然他也一定知道在距古徽州不远的浙江金华有一种更加着名的火腿肌红脂白，香气浓郁，滋味鲜美。

Jinhua ham is usually divided into 5 parts. 金华火腿，通常被细分为五个部分。

"Shangfang", literally⁹ the upper part, is the best. “上方”是肉质最好的部位。

It is an indispensable ingredient for making "Braised Ham in Honey Sauce", a traditional dish in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. 江浙传统名菜“蜜汁火方”中的“火方”指的就是金华火腿的上方。

It will take a cook much energy and time to finish the high-cost dish. 这道菜费工、费料、费时间。

But its sweet, salty taste is truly incomparable. 咸香的火腿浇上事先烧酥的蜜汁咸甜交织，回味无穷。

"Zhongfang", the middle part, can be shredded¹⁰ and cooked with tendons and sea cucumber into a high-end dish served at traditional banquets. “中方”通常可以切丝与蹄筋、海参搭配成为传统宴席当中的高档火腿菜。

The other 3 parts, ham shank, ham claw and ham grease, can be used for cooking soup. “火瞳”、“火爪”和“滴油”可以用来炖汤。

The broth¹¹ cooked with Jinhua Ham becomes a basic ingredient of dishes popular in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Guangdong. 金银蹄用金华火腿吊出来的汤构成了一切江浙菜乃至传统粤菜的底味。

Natural conditions influenced the traditional technique of ham making. 火腿的传统制作工艺受自然条件影响很大。

Mountains surrounding Jinhua city create a perfect natural environment for the production. 金华四面环山为火腿的腌制提供了天造之利。

So someone has suggested the ham develop from the Hui dish "Sliced Salted Pork." 因此有人推论徽菜里的“刀板香”是金华火腿的雏形。

someone has suggested the ham develop from the Hui dish "Sliced Salted Pork." 也有人推论徽菜里的“刀板香”是金华火腿的雏形。

But some legends show that the ham originated 1000 years ago in the Song Dynasty and was originally used to feed the army. 但也有民间传说认为金华火腿起源于一千年前的宋代曾经是抗击外族入侵时的一种军粮。

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